KIKS北京店 / 时装店设计分享

01 KIKS「X」

字母「X」是一连串隐喻的合集:它是代表「未知」的通用符号,也是宣示品牌结盟的关键纽带。在京城时尚潮流地标三里屯,经过设计革新的KIKS店铺核心主墙上赫然显现着一枚「X」,它由亿万年形成的天然绿色大理石纹理拼贴而成,提纲挈领地点明了ROOI Design and Research(诺亿设计研发)的设计故事和KIKS品牌的未来。

The letter “X” is a metaphor, a universal symbol for the unknown and a key link for brand alliances. An “X” pattern, formed by natural texture of stone and lines on emerald green marble, is displayed on the main wall of the renovated KIKS shop at Sanlitun, a fashion landmark in Beijing. It highlights unique design features of ROOI and indicates a promising future of KIKS.

▼立面变化,changing view of the facade 

KIKS的前身是一个名为「鞋报」的微信公众号,在此之前,创始人宝峰曾以「炒鞋」的身份入行运动潮流领域。热爱变生意,喜欢被磨平,2010年,宝峰短暂修正,又以媒体的身份重回行业。在内容和消费之间往往存在时差:因资讯或观点激起的消费冲动往往随着书页或网页的「翻篇」而「翻篇」,需要找到一种方式打通媒体和零售,在连贯的线索中生长「商机」。KIKS逐步由单一的新媒体拓展扩张成为新媒体、杂志、电商等体系形式,自2018年开始陆续于北京、上海开设实体店。

Before the establishment of the KIKS, its founder Baofeng entered the field of sports trends as a Sneakerhead with the WeChat public account “XieBao”, reporting the latest of all about sneakers. However, when hobby become business, the passion will be worn off. In 2010, Baofeng reset his strategy and reestablished himself as a sneaker media worker. When information spread so fast on social media, consumer impulse is developed between tweets and post, what’s better than connecting media and retail to bring the full experience to life. More importantly, a curated offer that best fit KIKS’readers and followers. KIKS has successfully established its offline retail in Beijing and Shanghai since 2018, but also expanded into a complete sneaker/streetwear ecosystem today, including social media, multimedia, magazines, content creation and e-commerce.

交由ROOI改造设计的店铺正是KIKS的首家线下店。2021年,顺应商业模型的演化,KIKS的门店需要一场升级。作为媒体、零售双线并行的品牌集合店,“KIKS「X」______”的空格处早已填充过若干品牌和人名,大众如Adidas、Converse,小众如All beings、洼冢洋介。对KIKS来说,实体店不仅是消费发生的场所,还是运营品牌活动、搭建「同好」社群的空间容器。

The first physical KIKS shop was redesigned by ROOI. In 2021, KIKS store need to be upgraded to follow the latest business model. KIKS multi-brand store implement media promotion-based retailing. The space in the “KIKS 「X」 ______” was occupied by the names of many brands and celebrities such as Adidas, Converse, All beings, Yosuke Kubozuka, etc. A physical KIKS shop is not only a location for consumption but also a place to carry out brand activities and build communities of “friends with similar interests and hobbies”.

▼店铺入口,the entrance 

“我们希望这个空间是个性的,它应完整诠释KIKS的品牌调性;我们还希望它是好客的,能在品牌活动发生时完全契合另一品牌的气质。” 这个有点纠结的brief让初步设计陷入功能性的迷宫,而欠缺吸引力。意识到这点后,KIKS开始放手,摆在ROOI桌案上的第二阶段任务书仅余一字:X。

“We expect a unique spatial design fully interpreting the tone of KIKS. We also want a hospitable and compatible design style that can also perfectly reflect qualities of another cooperative brand when a brand activity is held.” Due to this complex brief, the preliminary design was thrown into a function-oriented maze and became less attractive. After realizing this problem, KIKS reduced restrictive requirements. Hence, the requirement in the design brief of phase II given to ROOI only contained the symbol X.

▼对外开放的中央舞台,the central stage 

 

02 漫步宇宙:「包裹」包容
A Journey to the Universe: Inclusiveness

若以「天体运行论」来观,KIKS便是一颗「恒星」,它拥有着自己的引力场,捕获行星(即,合作品牌)、卫星(即,消费者),形成完整的运转轨道。这种以品牌运营模式为出发点的构思恰好直击品牌「大胆、前卫」的内核,又命中「三里屯是宇宙中心」的俚语。“彰显KIKS的特色无疑更为重要,合作品牌无论本身有怎样的风格、对店铺采取怎样的再设计,都需要融入KIKS的引力场。而对于消费者,坠入KIKS的轨道就像一场向心运动,以好奇心为驱动。”

From the perspective of Celestial Movement Theory, KIKS is a star with its own gravitational field. It is a fixed star with a gravitational field and captures planets (i.e., cooperative brands) and satellites (i.e., consumers), thus forming complete orbits. This idea based on the brand’s operating model exactly hits the brand’s core bold and avant-garde, and the slang term “Sanlitun is the center of the universe.” “Undoubtedly, it is more important to highlight the characteristics of KIKS. The style of cooperative brands and redesign of the physical shop need to be compatible with the gravitational field of KIKS. Consumers, driven by curiosity, fall into the orbit of KIKS and start the centripetal rotation.”

▼核心展示区,central display area 

▼使用功能的变换,rotating scene

核心展示区、衣架、鞋柜、隔墙板等主要功能构建在主题空间依次排开,可升降、可绕轨道运行、可拆卸,对话着KIKS「运动」的本质。它们能够根据功能需求来调整位置,并与矮层鞋柜、升降衣架自由组合出纯鞋类主题或服饰/鞋类混合展售空间。设计师以不锈钢圆柱体包裹原建筑空间的结构柱,像是植入一面哈哈镜,扭曲了光线和反射图像,消解空间的边界。以此为起点做「离心运动」,空间荡开「天体运行」的圆形轨道。

An original structural column in the store is wrapped by a stainless-steel cylinder to distort light and reflected images and eliminate spatial boundaries. Round orbits with the cylinder as a center are designed to place products. Various main functional structures such as the core display area, clothing racks, shoe cabinets, partition walls, are arranged in proper theme zones. They can be lifted, lowered, dismantled or distributed around the orbits, representing the dynamic essence of KIKS.

▼KIKS五种展示排列方式,Five display arrangements 

可移动式隔墙以彩色手工喷绘钢板为材料,其灵感源自太阳表面聚变而生的能量。它经历过数十次材料实验(盐水覆盖、药水浸泡、手工打磨、自然生锈、网格喷绘等方式),是在权衡纹路、色彩、耐久性等诸多因素下的最佳选择。

Movable partition walls are made of colored hand-painted steel plates. This is inspired by fusion reactions on the surface of the Sun. Designers have conducted dozens of material experiments (covering with salt water, immersion with medicinal liquid, polishing by hand, natural rusting, grid-based spray painting, etc.), and choose the best solution for partition walls after considering multiple factors like texture, color, durability, etc.

▼ 环绕式服装展示区,revolving display modual 

▼ 光环区,suspended clothes rack 

它们能够根据功能需求来调整位置,并与矮层鞋柜、升降衣架自由组合出纯鞋类主题或服饰/鞋类混合展售空间。或是向街道完全打开,展示出舞台空间;或是呈关闭状态,引导人们进入空间、沿轨迹探索;或是作为大幅面展墙,为品牌提供传达其形象的载体;又或是保持半遮半掩的「暧昧」……

Such walls can be relocated according to functional demands and cooperate with low shoe cabinets and adjustable clothing racks to create exclusive footwear exhibition space or clothing/footwear mixed exhibition space. The movable walls may form an open door to show the central stage, or generate a closed pattern to attract people to enter the space and start a journey along orbits. They can also be used as large display walls to publicize the brand.

▼以彩色手工喷绘钢板为原料,Walls made of colored hand-painted steel plates 

▼混合展售空间,Mixed exhibition space 

可移动式隔墙板既从属于空间的展陈系统,亦形成灵活的遮阳系统:它有效地解决了店铺的西晒问题,应对不同季节、不同天气可采取不同开阖方式,控制阳光的进入量亦控制温度。

Movable partition walls are not only a part of the whole exhibition system but also a flexible sun shading system that effectively solves the problem of sun exposure in the west. The walls are arranged appropriately according to changing seasons or weather conditions, thus controlling the sun exposure of the shop and indoor temperature.

▼可移动式隔墙板内侧,View inside the movable partition walls

ROOI将「KIKS宇宙」解读为「神秘」、「包容」:它不是一个「一目了然」的橱窗,适当遮挡商业,空间的体量感与艺术性足以牵动人们的向往;它能够自由切换多个场合,游刃于不同展示数量、不同品牌特质、不同活动形式。

As ROOI interprets, “KIKS Universe” is “mysterious” and “inclusive”: It is not a transparent shop window. Artistic design and suitable shielding of indoor commercial space can arouse people’s curiosity and attract them. Many optional diverse scenarios or occasions are provided to display all kinds of products regardless of the quantity of exhibited products, various styles of other brands and different event forms.

▼ 从中央展区看鞋墙,view of the shoe wall from the central display area 

 

03 潮不逐流,随需应变
Fashionable, Unique and Demand-oriented

改造之前,KIKS的三里屯店铺是一个「一目了然」的盒子,它随时「等候清空」,泯然于某场品牌活动。事实上,它积极地回应着KIKS前期的商业策略:网罗全球潮流品牌、品类多元、数量丰富,扮演着「大卖场」和「集成店」。ROOI的设计完全改变了KIKS北京店的气质。推门而入,休息区的《KIKS定番》并未安放于固定的书架,而是散落于坐席间穿过「时间胶囊」状的门厅,深红色夯土肌理墙面生长着「钉子」,它们可缩进墙身亦能拉出成为鞋架,还能在层次错落间形成不同的图样,或是拼出品牌logo。地面的黑金沙材质像是银河,代表着无垠宇宙,在此之上,动与定、古与今之间构筑一种微妙平衡。

The former KIKS shop at Sanlitun had a very transparent and ordinary spatial design style and just acted as a supermarket and integrated shop where passers-by could see all its products at a glance. Sometimes, its spare space was used to carry out some brand activities. In fact, it well reflected the preliminary business strategy of KIKS: gathering of numerous fashionable and diverse global brand products. While ROOI has endowed KIKS Beijing shop with brand-new appearance and qualities. The black galaxy granite floor containing various small flecks in the background is as beautiful as a miniature of the Galaxy. Standing on it, you seem to find yourself in the vast universe with numerous stars and feel a fine balance between motion and stillness. In the rest space, KIKS Teiban magazines are placed beside seats, instead of on book shelves.

▼ 胶囊试衣间与收银台,the time capsule-shaped lobby 

穿过「时间胶囊」状的门厅,深红色夯土肌理墙面生长着「钉子」,它们可缩进墙身亦能拉出成为鞋架,还能在层次错落间形成不同的图样,或是拼出品牌logo。地面的黑金沙材质像是银河,代表着无垠宇宙,在此之上,动与定、古与今之间构筑一种微妙平衡。

After passing through a time capsule-shaped lobby, you will see a crimson wall with many retractable nail-like protrusions. Such protrusions can be retracted into the wall and pulled out as small shoe racks. They can together form the brand logo or different patterns. Clothes cabinets are also capsule-shaped but have an opposite color, compared with the lobby. In the shoe fitting areas and waiting areas, mirrors are properly placed in front of stools.

▼可伸缩鞋墙,Scaleable shoe wall 

▼鞋墙伸缩示意,Display of scaleable shoe wall 

而主体空间则经历着由低到高、由虚至实的演变:中央部位,石绿松石展架所在处的地面被抬高,像是「舞台」,用于摆放最为珍贵的商品;衣架贴着隔墙的内外侧,配合鞋柜,来摆放价格相对较低的产品,并以不同的高度来与视线互动,置身其中如同置身「迷宫」,总能邂逅「下一刻惊喜」。新店铺串联出一种连续的仪式感,每一步都在暗示「买的值得」。

The main space shows an artful change between low and high places. In the central part, the ground where the kallaite stone display shelf stands is elevated to form an elegant stage for exhibiting the most valuable goods. Hangers on both sides of partition walls, together with shoe cabinets, are used for displaying products of a relatively lower price at different heights. The overall space is like a maze where visitors can always encounter many surprises. All parts of the new shop are coherent and grand, each of which indicates the concept of the best value for money.

▼展示墙体内侧,Interior view of the central showcase 

▼动态展示,Moving scene 

空间结构调整的背后藏着KIKS的商业模式之变。减少选品,限流并升格服务,用主体明确的品牌活动和限时展销,为进店客户传递清晰明确的讯息,借助单一款式销售数量的提升来获利。这种策略之变值得玩味咂摸。“潮流品牌习惯于drop的销售模式。它可以给消费者营造一种紧迫感和稀缺感;能协助品牌及时测试销售反应;还能借助事件形成‘知情人’的身份共识和活跃社群。它的背后是消费者注意力持续时间缩短。而与品牌联名,频繁更迭的内容,能够为消费者提供源源不断的新鲜感,亦能相互借势、彼此导流。”

The adjustment of spatial structure reveals a change in KIKS business model. KIKS reduces product ranges, upgrades service, carries out brand activities and limited-time exhibitions with specific and clear themes, and earns profits by increasing the sales of a single product model. It is worthwhile to ruminate over this new strategy. “Because of the shortened attention span of customers, fashion brands often adopt a sales model of ‘drop’. It causes a sense of urgency and scarcity for customers, measures the sale response timely, and forms event-based active communities. Cooperation with other brands and frequent updating of products can produce continuous novelty for customers and help each other take advantage of the other party’s resources and share customers.”

▼室内光影变化,Changing light and shadow 

▼细部,Details 

与品牌联手之外,KIKS也有自己的「drop」计划:脱胎于中国体育的全新产品将运动史上的高光时刻和熠熠生辉的体育精神解码于服饰、鞋类,借王军霞、南开五虎等标志性人物或事件,串联中国体育由弱到强的、不断突破的旅程。

In addition to cooperation with other brands, KIKS has a unique “drop” plan: it integrates great sporting glories and spirit into Chinese sports-based brand-new clothing and shoe products, and presents a development history of Chinese sports full of breakthroughs by using stories of celebrities like Wang Junxia, five leading players of Tianjin Nankai High School Basketball Team, etc.

▼傍晚时分外立面,Facade at dusk 

ROOI为KIKS北京店完成的室内设计中,红、黄、绿不期而遇,在自然光或照明的配合下营造出引人沉浸的氛围感,像是遥遥从北京正中心的故宫里借了色、点染了岁月的韵味。做潮流杂志的时候,KIKS以「定番」为后缀,永不褪色;做潮流空间的时候,当代的设计语言邂逅故宫的色与韵,亘古恒今。或许潮流即「定番」,立足可见的未来回望过去,探寻生动恣意的青年活力,这是KIKS与ROOI、与消费者的态度共鸣。

Both fashion design and spatial design need to show Chinese typical elements. ROOI incorporates red, yellow and green into the new interior design of KIKS Beijing, fostering a charming atmosphere when there is enough light. Such color collocation happens to be similar to that of the Imperial Palace, adding more charm to the design. As to the KIKS magazine, the word “Teiban” indicates an idea of trying to be eternal. As to the indoor spatial design of KIKS, its modern elements are associated with some colors and qualities of the Imperial Palace, indicating a link between the past and the present. Perhaps fashion means eternity. Exploring and pursuing vigor of youth by linking the past, the present and the future, is a common attitude of KIKS, ROOI and customers.

▼使用功能的变换,Changing function at night 

▼平面图,Plan 

项目名称|KIKS北京店
项目地点|北京市朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦1119号
项目类型|零售
项目面积|120平方米
完工时间|2021年8月
设计范围|室内
主创设计|王左千、沈佳记、何丹
施工单位|琰麓室内装饰(上海)有限公司
项目摄影|金伟琦
项目摄像|肖石明
文案撰稿|白雅舒
主要石材|Formulastre

Project Name: KIKS Beijing
Project Location: No. 1119, 3.3 Building, Sanlitun, Chaoyang District, Beijing
Project Type: Retail
Project Area: 120 Square Meters
Completion Time: August 2020
Design Scope: Interior
Design Team: Zuoqian Wang, Jiaji Shen, Dan He
Construction Team: Yanlu Interior Decoration (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
Photographer: Weiqi Jin
Video: Shiming Xiao
Copywriter: Yashu Bai
Main Material: Formulastre